Wine & Travel for the St. Petersburg Times

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Wine of the Week, 30 June 2010

Wine of the Week: 2008 Artesa Carneros Chardonnay

     For those of us who have switched our allegiance to unoaked chardonnays, the 2008 Artesa Carneros Chardonnay, a mostly classic expression of the California style, comes as a pleasant surprise.

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Wine of the Week, 23 June 2010

Wine of the Week: 2007 Red Guitar Tempranillo Garnacha

     We confess ourselves gobsmacked. It happened the other evening as we opened a bottle of one of our favorite everyday Spanish reds to go with a cold summer supper of barbecued turkey meatloaf with spinach-feta and yam-millet cakes on the side. As we took the first familiar and satisfying sip it hit us: We've been writing about wines in this space for a couple of years and we've yet to share our fondness for Red Guitar, a blend of old vines tempranillo and garnacha (grenache) from Navarra.

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Wine of the Week, 16 June 2010

Wine of the Week: 2008 Carchelo

     We admit it: We're suckers for a pretty face. When the high-design label and near psychedelic foil of the 2008 Carchelo from Spain's Bodegas Carchelo (about $10 to $12 at big-box stores and wine-savvy markets) jumped at us from a specialty grocer's shelf, we fell hard for it and had to have a taste. What's behind a come-hither look isn't always what we hope for, of course, but in this case the wine proved to be as seductive as its packaging.

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Wine of the Week, 9 June 2010

Wine of the Week: 2008 Angove Nine Vines Shiraz Viognier

     The blend in the 2008 Angove Nine Vines Shiraz Viognier from South Australia (about $12 at wine-savvy markets) surprised us and we had to have a taste. The red shiraz dominates at 94 percent while the white viognier serves largely as an intensifier, the wine's deep red color giving no inkling of the latter's presence.

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Wine of the Week, 2 June 2010

Wine of the Week: 2007 Ghost Pines Winemaker's Blend Cabernet Sauvignon

     The name Louis M. Martini on a cabernet, even when visible only in the fine print on the back of the bottle, makes it a good bet that the wine will be worth drinking. Such is certainly the case for the 2007 Ghost Pines Winemaker's Blend Cabernet Sauvignon (about $17 at wine shops and big-box stores).

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Wine of the Week, 26 May 2010

Wine of the Week: 2008 Marques de Riscal Rueda

     We wrap up our spring series on cooling summer wines this week with a frisky and elegant Spanish white, a blend of native verdejo (85 percent) and viura grapes fermented in stainless steel. The 2008 Marques de Riscal Rueda ($15 or less at wine-savvy markets and wine shops) is an excellent aperitif and shines as a treat for sipping in the shade. It also would be a fine companion for sushi or for a big seasonal fruit and greens salad with goat cheese.

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Wine of the Week, 19 May 2010

Wine of the Week: 2007 Toad Hollow
Unoaked Chardonnay

     Like many wine drinkers of our acquaintance, when it comes to chardonnay we've shifted our allegiance from overblown vanilla monsters to crisply acidic versions that spend not a minute of their lives in oak barrels. A fine example of the style we've come to favor is the 2007 Toad Hollow Unoaked Chardonnay (widely available for about $13).

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Wine of the Week, 12 May 2010

Wine of the Week: 2007 Echelon Pinot Grigio

     The 2007 Echelon Pinot Grigio from California's Clarksburg region (about $9 at wine savvy markets and wine shops) is a big fruit salad of a wine. This bottling from the Esperanza Vineyard bordering the Sacramento River is styled a "special release" and is indeed a very handsome example of its kind.

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Wine of the Week, 5 May 2010

Wine of the Week: 2008 Lucky Star Chardonnay

     We love to find summery white wines with backbone for less than $10. The 2008 Lucky Star Chardonnay (about $9 at wine-savvy markets) fills that prescription perfectly.

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Wine of the Week, 28 April 2010

Wine of the Week: 2006 Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Riesling

     When it comes to New World rieslings, the 2006 Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Riesling from Washington's Columbia Valley (about $18 at big box stores and wine shops) is a tropically inflected stunner.

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Wine of the Week, 14 April 2010

Wine of the Week: 2008 Terra Summa Classic Spanish Red Blend

     Terra Summa, translated as "the whole of the earth," is a new family of certified organic wines from Italy, France and Spain. Some are varietals, including a French cabernet sauvignon and an Italian chardonnay, and some are blends. We sampled the 2008 Terra Summa Classic Spanish Red Blend from Valencia (about $12 at well-stocked supermarkets) and found it to be an admirable wine at an attractive price.

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Wine of the Week, 7 April 2010

Wine of the Week: 2008 Simi Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc

     Chalk it up to spring fever. All we can think about are light and lively white wines like the 2008 Simi Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc (about $13 at big-box stores).

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Wine of the Week, 31 March 2010

Wine of the Week: 2008 King Estate Domaine Oregon Pinot Gris

     This week's wine, a luscious salute to spring, has visions of big, ripe, sun-warmed pears dancing in our heads. Colette, who usually is not given to corrupting the language, did not hesitate to declare the 2008 King Estate Domaine Oregon Pinot Gris "pearlicious."

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Wine of the Week, 24 March 2010

THRIFTY Wine of the Week: 2008 Monterey County
Black Box Chardonnay

     It's a truth worth repeating that good wines needn't be expensive. Our price ceiling in this space, for example, has always been $25, and the majority of the dozens of wines we've recommended come in well under that mark. One way to economize on table wines, and to be kind to the planet, is to choose a decent wine in a box, of which there now are several on supermarket shelves.

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Wine of the Week, 17 March 2010

Wine of the Week: 2008 Root: 1 Carmenere

     The label of the 2008 Root: 1 Carmenere from Chile's Vina Ventisquero winery (about $13 at supermarkets and wine shops) tells a tale we found intriguing. The claim is that making wine from grapes grown on original, ungrafted roots (most vines are grown on grafted rootstock) produces an especially complex varietal. We liked the idea and had to taste for ourselves. We're glad we did.

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Wine of the Week, 10 March 2010

Wine of the Week: 2008 Castle Rock Mendocino County Pinot Noir

     The 2008 Castle Rock Mendocino County Pinot Noir (about $15 at supermarkets and elsewhere) is something of an anomaly. For a wine that offers such delights to the palate, it offers very little to the nose. The winemaker suggests subtle aromas of violets and rose petals but we wouldn't swear to that.

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Wine of the Week, 3 March 2010

Wine of the Week: 2006 Clos LaChance Black-Chinned Syrah

     The 2006 Clos LaChance Black-Chinned Syrah (about $18 at wine shops and wine-savvy markets) is a bold and full-bodied wine sourced from the winemaker's estate vineyard in San Martin on California's Central Coast. Its name comes from the species of hummingbird that polices the vines, which is charming but wouldn't mean a thing if the deep garnet contents of the bottle weren't so eminently drinkable.

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Wine of the Week, 24 February 2010

Wine of the Week: 2008 Dr. L Riesling

     The 2008 Dr. L Riesling (about $15 at wine shops and wine-savvy markets) is a textbook non-estate Mosel Valley riesling with a postmodern snap. There's good reason it not only came in at No. 62 in the 2009 Wine Spectator Top 100 Wines with a score of 90, but also was rated a best buy.

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Wine of the Week, 17 February 2010

Wine of the Week: 2007 Water Wheel "Memsie"

     Let's get this embarrassing use of winespeak out of the way and move on: The 2007 Water Wheel Memsie (about $16 at big-box stores) is a sassy Australian red with a flamboyantly jammy nose. It also is a gorgeous, easy-drinking wine, accessible but just complex enough to justify its price.

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Wine of the Week, 10 February 2010

Wine of the Week: Santa Margherita Brut Prosecco

     This week's wine, an Italian sparkler we've nicknamed the Lemon Drop Kid, is a definite contender for toasting your darling on Valentine's Day. Santa Margherita Brut Prosecco will run you about $20 the bottle at big-box stores.

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Wine of the Week, 3 February 2010

Wine of the Week: 2006 La Cuvee du President Vacqueyras

     We absolutely love it when we happen upon a wine that may one day rival its celebrated neighbors but is available now at prices that give us all a crack at it before it jumps to the top shelf. In this case the wine, the 2006 La Cuvee du President Vacqueyras, hails from a southern Rhone appellation between giants Chateauneuf du Pape and Gigondas. If it's a bit less refined, even rustic, well, at about $17 a bottle at wine shops and big-box stores, we just don't care.

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Wine of the Week, 27 January 2010

Wine of the Week: 2006 PradoRey Roble

     If, like us, you break with tradition when it comes to drinking sherry with tapas, or if you're just in the mood to experiment, we suggest a bold and lively Spanish red as an alternative. A fine place to start would be with the 2006 PradoRey Roble (about $12 at wine shops), a blend of 95 percent tinto fino (a tempranillo alias) abetted by dashes of cabernet sauvignon and merlot.

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Wine of the Week, 20 January 2010

Wine of the Week: 2003 Boots Grenache

     "I am fascinated by the nuances and subtleties of grenache," declares Kellermeister winemaker Trevor Jones. It shows in his downright gorgeous 2003 Boots Grenache (about $16 at wine shops and big-box stores), a stunner from South Australia's Barossa Valley.

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Wine of the Week, 13 January 2010

Wine of the Week: 2008 Alamos Malbec

     The malbecs of Argentina's high and dry Mendoza region in the Andean Cordillera are being noticed worldwide with good reason. The best of them are supple reds with ample highlights and a persistent subtlety. That certainly is true of the 2008 Alamos Malbec (about $11 at wine shops and wine-savvy markets).

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Wine of the Week, 6 January 2010

Wine of the Week: 2007 Cambria 'Julia's Vineyard' Pinot Noir

     Finally, a big fully expressed pinot noir at a price we can live with. The 2007 Cambria "Julia's Vineyard" Pinot Noir from California's Santa Maria Valley near Santa Barbara is a superb value at about $21 and can be found at wine savvy markets, wine shops and big-box stores.

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Wine of the Week, 30 December 2009

Wines of the Week: Four Sparkling Wines For New Year's Eve

     If you're pulling out all the stops this year to send the old year packing and usher in a more prosperous one, Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Brut Champagne, generally known simply as Yellow Label, should fill the bill nicely. This long has been one of our favorite splurge wines and is the only true Champagne on this year's short list of sparklers for the holidays. It is priced anywhere from $37 to about $50 at wine shops, wine-savvy markets and big-box stores, so it pays to shop around. Also reviewed: Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut, Gruet Brut and Cristalino Brut Cava.

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Wine of the Week, 23 December 2009

Wine of the Week: The Stump Jump 2008 Shiraz

     This week we have a lovely little bonbon of a wine for you in the Stump Jump 2008 Shiraz from Chester Osborn's d'Arenberg winery in South Australia's McLaren Vale region. Given that Wine Spectator scored this unctuous red a 90 and slotted it at No. 82 on its 2009 Top 100 Wines list, it's hard to believe it goes for $10 or less at wine-savvy markets and wine shops.

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Wine of the Week, 16 December 2009

Wine of the Week: 2007 Block 613 Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville

     If duck is somewhere in your lineup of holiday feasts this year, as it is at our house, you might be casting about for just the right wine pairing. Pinot noir would do nicely, of course, but if you're looking for a big, bold, lusty red to complement the richness of the bird you could hardly do better than the 2007 Block 613 Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville (about $25 at wine shops and big-box stores).

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Wine of the Week, 9 December 2009

Wine of the Week: 2006 Clos du Cheval Blanc Cotes de Bourg

     Because we're big fans of good, coarse country pate, we often find ourselves wondering what wine that we haven't yet tried might go perfectly with a judicious slice, some crusty bread and a handful of cornichons. Often our thoughts turn to Bordeaux, since its denizens tend both to appreciate a good pate and to demand good wine, which is where the 2006 Clos du Cheval Blanc Cotes de Bourg (about $13 at wine shops and big-box stores) comes from. We were not disappointed in the match, although this hearty red would go equally well with steak au poivre and french fries crisped in duck fat.

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Wine of the Week, 2 December 2009

Wine of the Week: 2009 Beaujolais Nouveau

     We know no one's pining after yet another tale of a bursting bubble, but that seems to be what we have on our hands in the case of the 2009 Beaujolais nouveau, the new wine of Beaujolais released every year on Nov. 19 to some fanfare. The trouble is that this fresh wine has been overhyped for at least the past decade, raising expectations above the youngster's ability to deliver. As a result, after so many disappointments, demand declined and this year's release is difficult to find, which is a shame, since this is the best year for Beaujolais nouveau in recent memory.

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Wine of the Week, 18 November 2009

Wine of the Week: 2008 Washington Hills
'Paradise Peak' Gewurtztraminer

     It's that time again. The annual debate over what to drink with turkey rages, with partisans of reds or whites or sparklers digging in for battle. Honestly, the question is incapable of resolution. Personal taste inevitably will carry the day at your dinner table and ours.

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Wine of the Week, 11 November 2009

Wine of the Week: Cono Sur Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenere

     Don't go overboard with this -- no need to dust off the decanter -- but this week's wine, Cono Sur Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenere (about $12 at wine savvy markets), is one that will benefit from being opened a half-hour or so before dinner. [ full text ]

Wine of the Week, 4 November 2009

Wine of the Week: Graham's Six Grapes Porto

     Do you have a sweet tooth? Is dessert your favorite part of a meal? Then Graham's Six Grapes Porto (about $20 at wine shops and big box stores) is for you. This toothsome dessert in a glass from a respected Portuguese house weighs in at a hefty 19.5 percent alcohol content, which is typical of fortified wines, but the alcohol is not the dominant note either on the nose or on the tongue. Instead, those six grapes come shining through. [ full text ]

Wine of the Week, 28 October 2009

Wine of the Week: 2006 Razor's Edge Cabernet Sauvignon

     The excellent 2006 Razor's Edge Cabernet Sauvignon (about $15 at wine shops) is the first release of the varietal for the up-and-coming Australian winemaker, but don't call it beginner's luck. To date, this McLaren Vale winery has produced three well-received vintages of shiraz, one of a shiraz-grenache blend and one of a nice unoaked chardonnay. They don't grow their own grapes, but somebody obviously has a good eye for production from surrounding vineyards in this prized region.
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Wine of the Week, 21 October 2009

Wine of the Week: 2007 Menage a Trois California Red

     If you're in the mood to wallow in a wine that's well made but slurpy with wild fruit, structure and tannins be damned, we've got the red for you. Let's say you're doing roast duck in a seasonal berry sauce, maybe with mashed sweet potatoes on the side, and want a wine that instead of providing counterpoint intensifies the natural sweetness of the food. That wine is the 2007 Menage a Trois California Red (about $14 at supermarkets and big box stores but often discounted).
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Wine of the Week, 14 October 2009

Wine of the Week: 2007 Graham Beck Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon

     One of the corners of the winemaking world we hadn't set foot in before this week is South Africa. We chose as our first wine from the Western Cape region of that country the 2007 Graham Beck Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon (about $12 at big box stores), based both on chatter about this particular value wine and on the winery's impressive international reputation.
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Wine of the Week, 7 October 2009

Wine of the Week: 2006 Cambria 'Katherine's Vineyard' Chardonnay

     I was prowling the aisles of a local wine shop, searching for a wine we wanted to write about. The shop didn't stock it. Bummer. Then my eye fell on an old favorite -- Cambria "Katherine's Vineyard" Chardonnay (about $18 at big-box stores, wine shops and supermarkets) -- and the day was saved. The current release is the 2007 vintage but we were just as happy to drink the 2006 we plucked from the shelf.
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Wine of the Week, 30 September 2009

Wine of the Week: Francis Coppola 2007 Black Label Claret

     Don't worry about seeming pretentious. After you've poured this week's wine, do yourself a big favor by sticking your nose in the glass and inhaling. Then do it again before taking your first sip. The Francis Coppola 2007 Black Label Claret (about $18 at supermarkets and big-box stores) will reward your effort with a heady aroma compounded of chocolate and blackberry with a subtle but resonant licorice bass note.
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Wine of the Week, 23 September 2009

Wine of the Week: 2006 Snoqualmie Columbia Valley Syrah

     This week's wine, the 2006 Snoqualmie Columbia Valley Syrah (about $10 to $12 at wine shops and wine savvy markets), is one of those troupers that delivers the goods without fanfare or fuss. Hailing from the dry east side of Washington's Cascade Mountains, this syrah is crafted for maximum amiability by winemaker Joy Anderson, who also is known for her line of "Naked" organically grown and vinified varietals.
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Wine of the Week, 16 September 2009

Wine of the Week: 2008 Alma Rosa Pinot Gris

     Being us, we began to think about food pairings with our first sips of this week's wine, the 2008 Alma Rosa Pinot Gris (about $18 at wine shops and wine-savvy markets) from veteran California growers and winemakers Richard and Thekla Sanford. In their Santa Rita Hills vineyards they specialize in organic, sustainable farming of pinot noir grapes. In the winery they craft pinot noir, pinot gris, pinot blanc and pinot noir-vin gris (a rose), as well as chardonnay, which they also grow.
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Wine of the Week, 9 September 2009

Wine of the Week: 2008 Gracia de Chile Sauvignon Blanc

     One of our favorite weekday summer suppers is shrimp scampi, bright with lemon and garlic and redolent of white wine and butter, served over linguine. It has enough heft to be satisfying but is light enough for hot weather. The perfect companion for this lighthearted dish is a well-chilled sauvignon blanc, which as constant readers know tops our list of go-to summer wines.
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Wine of the Week, 2 September 2009

Wine of the Week: 2006 Santa Alicia Reserva Carmenere

     We've written before about the carmenere grape, which thrives now most prominently in Chile despite its provenance as one of the six original red grapes of Bordeaux. This week we feature another outstanding and well-priced Chilean wine made from this noble grape, the 2006 Santa Alicia Reserva Carmenere (about $8 at wine savvy specialty markets and supermarkets).
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Wine of the Week, 26 August 2009

Wine of the Week: 2007 Zen of Zin Old Vines Zinfandel

     Because they're versatile and food-friendly, we drink zins year-round, with a special preference for those made from the intensely flavorful grapes grown sparingly on old vines. The 2007 Zen of Zin Old Vines Zinfandel (about $8 but often discounted at big box stores and supermarkets), from Sonoma County vintner Ravenswood, fills the bill for us nicely. It's great with hearty cold-weather fare like meaty stews, but it's just as good as a companion to the backyard grill or with a nice wedge of soft cheese served with fresh figs.
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Wine of the Week, 19 August 2009

Wine of the Week: 2007 Clos du Bois Pinot Grigio

     We continue our parade of crisp summer whites with a wine from Sonoma County winemaker Clos du Bois, a house probably best known for its always reliable chardonnay, a staple of grocery store shelves and restaurant wine lists alike. This week we sample the 2007 Clos du Bois Pinot Grigio (widely available at about $13), a particularly refined, structured and refreshing example of its kind.
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Wine of the Week, 12 August 2009

Wine of the Week: 2007 Hey Mambo Sultry Red

     Hey mambo, mambo Italiano! We can't get the tune (sung by Dean Martin, of course) out of our heads since we discovered the 2007 Hey Mambo Sultry Red (about $12 at wine shops). It's a California blend, not Italian, but Dino would go for it anyway, we're pretty sure. Hey Mambo is a real party animal: vivacious, gregarious, robust and bawdy but civilized, the kind of guest who might not be the center of attention but nonetheless is the engine that drives the party into the wee hours.

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Wine of the Week, 5 August 2009

Wine of the Week: 2008 Cupcake Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc

     It was a successful hunting and gathering foray. John finally tracked down a wine we had been wanting to write about -- the 2008 Cupcake Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc -- and on the way home, the thrill of the hunt lingering in his veins, he stopped by a previously unexplored specialty market in search of just the right game to accompany the wine. And there they were: a brace of beautiful golden snapper fillets and not far away a covey of deep green asparagus spears. He beat his chest in triumph and hurried home.
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Wine of the Week, 29 July 2009

Wine of the Week: 2007 Firesteed Oregon Pinot Gris

     This week we put a winemaker's boast to the test. The wine is the 2007 Firesteed Oregon Pinot Gris (about $13 at big box stores and wine shops). The boast is that "many consider it the optimal wine to serve with salmon." How could we resist an experiment?
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Travel, 26 July 2009

Dining in Tucson
A region's bright flavors unfold

     TUCSON -- Tucson is a great restaurant town. From its enviable collection of culinary gems, we've picked four longtime favorites and a recent discovery for closeups. We start at the top of the local food chain with Janos Wilder, one of the Southwest's most creative and best loved chefs (and a James Beard award winner). [ Briefly reviewed in this article: Janos, Cafe Poca Cosa, El Charro, The Audubon Bar at The Arizona Inn and Feast. ]
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Wine of the Week, 8 July 2009

Wine of the Week: 2008 Casa Lapostolle Sauvignon Blanc

     Need a reason to see the wine glass as half full? Think of the July heat as a signal to climb aboard the bandwagon for crisp, dry summer whites. This week's choice, the 2008 Casa Lapostolle Sauvignon Blanc (about $12 at big box stores and wine shops), is a corker.
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Wine of the Week, 1 July 2009

Wine of the Week: 2006 Louis Latour "Ardeche" Chardonnay

     When we think of white wines from Burgundy we think of flint, of the mineral taste of the limestone-rich soils in which the grapes grow. A lovely embodiment of that essence is the 2006 Ardeche Chardonnay from Maison Louis Latour, which also happens to be a spectacular bargain (about $8 at wine shops and wine-savvy specialty markets).
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Wine of the Week, 24 June 2009

Wine of the Week: Chehalem 2007 Pinot Gris

     As cool and crisp as a tart Italian citrus ice is the Chehalem 2007 Pinot Gris (about $18 at wine shops) from Oregon's Willamette Valley, a region celebrated for its peerless pinot noirs.
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Wine of the Week, 17 June 2009

Wine of the Week: Murphy-Goode 2007 Sauvignon Blanc "The Fume"

     What's wrong with a little honey on the tongue? Not a thing. Sure, we beat the drum for dry, dry, dry white wines, especially on the uphill side of a steamy Florida summer, but we know a good off-dry wine when we taste it. A case in point is the Murphy-Goode 2007 Sauvignon Blanc "The Fume" (about $14 at wine-savvy supermarkets and big box stores).
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Wine of the Week, 10 June 2009

Wine of the Week: Edna Valley Vineyard 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon

     When we think cabernet sauvignon, we usually think a big hunk of meat: a sizzling steak or lush leg of lamb, a rich beef bourguignon or even a rack of ribs. But, in these budget-conscious times, what fare could we match with a robust cab that was a bit easier on the wallet?
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Wine of the Week, 3 June 2009

Wine of the Week: Undone 2007 Dry Riesling

     A clever label depicting a woman's torso in an unlacing corset won't hurt sales of Undone 2007 Dry Riesling (about $11 at big box stores), but there's much more to this lively minimalist than sex appeal. Although the lightest touch of honey on the tongue reminds us of this wine's origins in Germany's Rheinhessen region, it easily lives up to its advertising pitch: "unoaked, unadulterated, crisp, dry 'naked' flavor."
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Wine of the Week, 27 May 2009

Wine of the Week: 2008 Crios de Susana Balbo Rose of Malbec

     The 2008 Crios de Susana Balbo Rose of Malbec (about $10 at wine shops) is delightfully flirty, all blushes and giggles and so pretty in pink. But she is no mere slip of a thing. She hails from the Mendoza region of Argentina, from the presses of Dominio del Plata, where winemaker Susana Balbo turns out wines with good strong bones. Her rose of malbec is meant to be drunk in the exuberance of its youth.
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Wine of the Week, 13 May 2009

Wine of the Week: 2005 Irony Chardonnay

     This week's wine is a knockout, whether paired with food or sipped for its own sake. The 2005 Irony Chardonnay (about $13 at wine shops) is a big, giddy Napa Valley powerhouse bursting with fruit and finesse.
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Wine of the Week, 6 May 2009

Wine of the Week: Chateau Bois Redon 2006

     The Chateau Bois Redon 2006 (about $10 at big box stores) is not the superior wine the 2005 was, but at this price it is a reasonable choice for pairing with whatever meats, encased or otherwise, you might be throwing on the grill this weekend.
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Wine of the Week, 29 April 2009

Wine of the Week: Louis Bouillot Perle de Vigne
'Grande Reserve' Brut

     We turned the table for this week's tasting, seeking a sparkling wine that pairs as well as Champagne with one of our favorite cheeses, instead of the other way around. We found the match in Louis Bouillot Perle de Vigne "Grande Reserve" Brut (nonvintage; about $16 at wine shops and big box stores).
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Wine of the Week, 22 April 2009

Wine of the Week: Hopler 2007 Gruner Veltliner

     There is nothing better with an iced platter of fresh oysters than a good Gruner Veltliner from Austria. This crisp white perfectly complements the sea tang of the queen of the raw bar.
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Wine of the Week, 15 April 2009

Wine of the Week: Da Vinci 2006 Chianti

     The winemaker's finesse shows in every sip of Da Vinci 2006 Chianti (about $14 at wine shops and big box stores), a supple and elegant red blend from Leonardo's hometown in Tuscany.
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Wine of the Week, 8 April 2009

Wine of the Week: Meyer Jean-Luc 2004 Riesling

     If when you think of Riesling you call to mind a blue bottle with the word RELAX in big bold letters, that's okay. It's an inexpensive wine and fine for what it is, which is not quite soda pop but definitely on the sweet side. To see what a winemaker can really do with this grape, we recommend Meyer Jean-Luc's 2004 Riesling (about $15 at wine shops and big box stores), an exquisitely dry white wine from France's Alsace region.
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Wine of the Week, 1 April 2009

Wine of the Week: Tosca Prosecco

     Tosca Prosecco (about $10 to $12 at wine shops and big box stores), a sparkling wine from northern Italy's celebrated Veneto region, is as refreshing on a warm afternoon as a paper cone of lemon Italian ice. Lemon, in fact, is the predominant note in this elegant, minimalist sparkler.
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Wine of the Week, 25 March 2009

Wine of the Week: Robert Hall 2006 Paso Robles Sauvignon Blanc

     California's Paso Robles wine region has earned its reputation as the cradle of some of the state's most exciting wines and innovative winemakers. Among those producers is Robert Hall Winery, where Don Brady consistently turns out award-winning wines.
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Wine of the Week, 18 March 2009

Wine of the Week: Sokol Blosser Evolution, 12th Edition

     Sokol Blosser Winery's Evolution (about $19 at wine shops and big box stores) will delight you with its acrobatics. This crazy mixed-up blend from Oregon, styled simply an American White Wine, somersaults onto the tongue and lands with both feet, executes a few showy backflips complete with a twist and then dismounts with a big laugh, leaving your palate surprised, exhilarated and ready for anything.
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Wine of the Week, 11 March 2009

Wine of the Week: Ravenswood Vintners Blend
California Petite Sirah 2006

     The zinfandel marketed under Ravenswood's Vintners Blend label has long been a staple on our shopping list. It is well priced, reliable and a fine partner for food. Now we're adding to our list the label's California Petite Sirah (the current release, 2006, brings $11 or less at supermarkets and big box stores).
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Wine of the Week, 4 March 2009

Wine of the Week: Martin Codax 2007 Albarino

     Spain's Rias Baixas wine region lies among the green folds of the Galician coast. Not far inland is the fabled Christian pilgrimage destination of Santiago de Compostela. Unlike much of Spain, the region enjoys ample rain and relatively high humidity. Its climate is mild with chilly weather limited largely to December and January. Its premier grape is Albarino, which produces a subtly robust, citrusy, lightly floral white wine that goes beautifully with food but also can't be beat for sipping in the shade on a warm afternoon.
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Wine of the Week, 25 February 2009

Wine of the Week: Mark West 2007 California Pinot Noir

     "Pinot For The People" is the rallying cry for the value-priced Mark West 2007 California Pinot Noir (about $12 at big box stores and some supermarkets), an everyday wine blended, as its name suggests, from grapes grown all over California wine country.
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Wine of the Week, 18 February 2009

Wine of the Week: Ruffino 'Il Leo' 2007 Chianti Superiore

     Sangiovese is probably best known as the dominant grape in the blend called Chianti, the family of wines that takes its name from a region in Tuscany. Chiantis range from youngsters with a bite to velvety wines with attitude. Toward the smooth and balanced end of that spectrum is Ruffino "Il Leo" 2007 Chianti Superiore (about $11 at big box stores and wine savvy supermarkets). It isn't the top of the Chianti line by any means, but it is a step up from typical supermarket offerings.
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Wine of the Week, 11 February 2009

Wine of the Week: Kim Crawford 2008 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc

     Bright. Buoyant. Exuberant. All three adjectives describe Kim Crawford 2008 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand (about $15 to $18 at supermarkets and big box stores). This is one of the wines that sparked the craze in this country for sauv blancs from the other side of the world (as well as leading the way in subbing screw-top caps for corks) and it still ranks high on our list of favorite wines from anywhere.
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Wine of the Week, 4 February 2009

Wine of the Week: Beauzeaux 2005 Red Wine

     We can't decide whether the proliferation of offbeat names for everyday table wines is an honest attempt by producers to lure younger buyers away from beer and alcoholic soda pop or a bad sign for civilization as we know it. Some of the wines thus labeled are as silly and forgettable as their cutesy names, while others, like Red Truck and Big House Red, are perfectly rational blends. Beauzeaux 2005 Red Wine (about $12 at liquor stores and supermarkets), we are advised by the label, is to be pronounced "bozo." Don't hold that (or its screw-top cap) against it. Beauzeaux is a skillful if nontraditional blend of grapes from all over California wine country by the reliable and thoroughly reputable Sonoma vintner Beaulieu Vineyard.
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Wine of the Week, 28 January 2009

Wine of the Week: Les Piliers 2004 Syrah

     You've heard the canard that red wines must be allowed to breathe for at least an hour before serving if they are to fully reveal their complexity. With many perfectly drinkable reds from every region this is not true. Some wines give their all within a few minutes of opening the bottle. But another class of red wine rewards delayed gratification with a bouquet that blossoms only after it has hobnobbed for a spell with the atmosphere. This week's wine is among the latter.
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Feature Article, 21 January 2009

Florida uncorks a new year of wine events with celebrity chefs

     Two of Europe's remaining crowned heads, a platoon of celebrity chefs and a gaggle of gregarious winemakers headline food and wine festivals from Safety Harbor to Miami's South Beach in the coming months. Some will set your wallet on fire and others are easy on the budget. All share, in various configurations, a passion for food, cooking, wine and spirits.
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Wine of the Week, 21 January 2009

Wine of the Week: Boho Vineyards 2006 Central Coast Chardonnay

     There is a box of wine in our refrigerator, a confession that just a few short months ago we would not have made under torture. Technically, we're talking about what the industry likes to call a premium wine cask, a taste- and odor-neutral plastic liner inside a cardboard box, typically holding 3 liters of wine, the equivalent of four standard bottles.
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Wine of the Week, 14 January 2009

Wine of the Week: 2006 Rosso & Bianco Rosso

     Rosso & Bianco Rosso 2006 red table wine is warm buttered toast and blackberry jam in a bottle. If it were a puppy it would be a St. Bernard, all adorable big feet and soft brown eyes. The pronounced caramel aroma that rises as you splash it into your glass is guaranteed to make you smile. This is a warmer, friendlier wine than one might reasonably expect from the man who gave us Apocalypse Now and The Godfather.
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Wine of the Week, 7 January 2009

Wine of the Week: 2007 Silvertop Torrontes

     This week's wine is one we're assigning to a niche. It is a bright and crisp white that pairs beautifully with spicy dishes from Thai green curry tofu to Indian tandoori chicken to New Mexican carne adovada, but its aggressively floral aroma is likely to make it a less than universal favorite.
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Wine of the Week, 28 December 2008

Wine of the Week: Gruet Methode Champenoise Brut NV

     We have sparkling wines and Champagnes galore, from the wretched to the sublime, available for celebrating the arrival of 2009, but one of the best and most attractively priced has nowhere near the following it deserves. The wine is Gruet Methode Champenoise Brut NV (about $14 to $19 at wine shops and big box stores), a truly superior nonvintage sparkler made by a French house transplanted to New Mexico. Yes, New Mexico.
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Wine of the Week, 17 December 2008

Wine of the Week: 2007 Gascon Malbec

     In some quarters, the wines being made by South American vintners from the malbec grape, which was transplanted to the continent from its native France in the mid-19th century, have an undeserved reputation for being a bit thin, for looking good but suffering from a lack of substance. The 2007 Gascon Malbec from Argentina's celebrated Mendoza region (about $13 at wine shops and big box stores) soundly refutes this popular slander.
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Wine of the Week, 10 December 2008

Concannon 2006 Central Coast Chardonnay

     It probably has something to do with the proliferation in the past decade or so of citrusy, fullblown sauvignon blancs, especially from New Zealand's Marlborough district, but we've been losing our taste for big, over-oaked, vanilla-forward California chardonnays. They too often overpower the foods they're meant to complement.
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Wine of the Week, 3 December 2008

Seghesio 2007 Zinfandel Sonoma County

     Would you like to be able to give the oenophile on your holiday gift list a bottle of wine rated one of the Top 10 worldwide for 2008 by Wine Spectator and still be out of pocket no more than 24 bucks? Then you're in luck.
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Wine of the Week, Thanksgiving Special, 23 November 2008

Give thanks for these delicious wines

     When it comes to choosing wines to accompany the traditional Thanksgiving feast, you could easily begin and end with sparkling wines from Spain, California, Washington or France without breaking the budget. But there are some excellent choices in dry and not-so-dry white wines and a couple of lively reds, too.
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Wine of the Week, 19 November 2008

Castello di Gabbiano 2007 Chianti

     One of our favorite everyday Tuscan reds is common on supermarket shelves in the $8 to $9 range. This fine utility infielder is Gabbiano Chianti by Castello di Gabbiano, which also produces the higher end Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva. This wine is easy to spot in the Italian wines section. Just look for the fabulous cavaliere, a mounted medieval warrior knight, with a winged helmet, shield and armor for both horse and rider in vivid blues, reds and touches of gold. Be sure the label reads simply 2007 Chianti. It usually will be about two shelves down from the more expensive chiantis.
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Wine of the Week, 12 November 2008

Gnarly Head Old Vine Zin 2006

     On our way to get takeout from our favorite rib place we stopped off for a bottle of our favorite barbecue wine, Gnarly Head Old Vine Zinfandel (the 2006 vintage is about $11 at supermarkets and big-box liquor stores). As we waited to check out, the woman next to us in line read the label on our bottle and laughed. "They sure come up with some crazy names these days!" [ full text ]

Wine of the Week, 5 November 2008

Bonterra Vineyards Chardonnay

     Bonterra Vineyards nonvintage Mendocino County chardonnay (about $12 at grocery stores and most wine shops) is a balanced and palate-pleasing example of the hugely popular varietal that just happens to be made from organically grown grapes.
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Travel, Latitudes, 2 November 2008

Boca Grande lives at a relaxed pace

     BOCA GRANDE -- The best of many good things about a weekend visit to this storied village on Gasparilla Island may be this: Once you've arrived at your hotel or cottage you can park your car and forget it. Seven miles of bike/golf cart/walking paths stretch from the famous Boca Grande Lighthouse on the southern tip of the island almost to its northern terminus. Bike and golf cart rentals are ample. The good life has a slower pace here.
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Wine of the Week, 29 October 2008

Casillero del Diablo Carmenere 2007

     The carmenere grape, considered one of the six original red grapes of Bordeaux, is rare in its native France these days but is thriving in Chile. If the Casillero del Diablo Carmenere 2007 (about $9 at well-stocked wine shops and big-box liquor retailers) from Concha y Toro is any indicator, Chilean winemakers are putting it to very good use indeed.
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Wine of the Week, 22 October 2008

Guenoc Petite Sirah, 2005

     Thanks at least in part to the 2004 movie Sideways, pinot noir has skyrocketed in popularity and price over the last few years. A pinot that once was priced for the everyday table now may be better suited to special occasions. A good value-priced alternative is a California petite sirah like the 2005 Guenoc, which retails at many local outlets in the $9 to $11 range.
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Wine of the Week, 15 October 2008

Cristalino brut Cava, Spain

     Years ago we astonished a friend by taking her out for one of those then uncommon wood-oven designer pizzas and ordering a sparkling wine to drink with it. "You drink Champagne with pizza, on a weeknight?" Well, not all the time. Champagne is pretty pricey, especially for a Tuesday night takeout pie, but Cristalino, a brut Cava from Spain that goes for $7 to $9 a bottle, is the perfect alternative and a real bargain.
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Wine of the Week, 8 October 2008

Florent de Brie, Rosé d'Anjou, 2007

     Finally! Summer's grip has begun to relax, which allows us to relax in the cool of the evening on the patio with a glass of undemanding wine before dinner. A classic rosé suits the season: just sweet enough for a white zinfandel drinker looking to move up, dry enough to tease rather than coat the palate, and plenty of lively fruit for everyone.
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Travel, 5 July 2008

For Wine Lovers in Manhattan
Bar Boulud, The Bar Room at The Modern, Morrell Wine Bar and Casa Mono

     NEW YORK CITY -- A good wine bar is a feast for all the senses, combining superior cooking, an exceptional array of fine wines by the glass and the bottle, and warm, expert service in a setting worthy of the food and drink. Manhattan has them in abundance. We've chosen four standouts for their proximity to temples of music, art, pop culture and indie movies.
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Bay Magazine, June 2008

Liquid Assets

     You are about to meet two collectors of fine wines. Their motive is not profit, although that might well come their way. What drives them is the thrill of the chase, the camaraderie of winemakers and other collectors, the pleasure of sharing their treasures with friends.
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Theater Review, 11 March 2008

To its own self 'Hamlet' is true

      Theatergoers would be hard-pressed to find a livelier, more satisfying Hamlet than the "tragedy by velocity" now at American Stage.
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Theater Preview, 2 March 2008

Hamlet's revenge gets a reboot

      The shirtless young man, alone in his room, broods over his laptop, at once connected and isolated. He is mourning his murdered father and trying to decide whether he believes the murderer is his uncle, who has since married the young man's mother and moved into the family home, usurping his dead father's rightful place.
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Travel, 2 December 2007

City to the south

     SARASOTA -- Looking for a weekend getaway that combines the pleasure of saltwater cruising with a destination worth the fuel? Then steer a course for Intracoastal Waterway Marker 8A, where you'll find full-service overnight slips for boats from 30 to 200 feet at Marina Jack and, a short walk due east, a marvelous mash-up of international cuisines.
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Art Review, 25 November 2007

Goya's Los Caprichos

     SARASOTA -- With a 1799 first edition of Francisco Goya's 80-engraving series Los Caprichos (variously glossed as The Caprices, The Whims or The Fantasies), the John and Mable Ringling Museum of Art has brought a treasure to the area.
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Art Review, 28 October 2007

A photographic memory

     TAMPA -- Always there is the unibrow, as delicate as moth wings or raptor fierce, almost as famous as the Gioconda smile, instantly recognizable as the emblem of the Mexican painter and cult figure enshrined in "Frida Kahlo: Images of an Icon" at the Tampa Museum of Art.
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Art Review (sidebar to review above), 28 October 2007

Images turn everyday life into art

     If your visit with Frida Kahlo in Tampa left you craving just one more image of La Frida, you'll find it in "Poetry of the Commonplace: A Selection of Latin American Photographs" at the Museum of Fine Arts.
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Travel, 9 September 2007

You don't have to wait for the DVD

     NEW YORK -- In Woody Allen's classic Annie Hall, the documentary The Sorrow and The Pity seems always to be playing somewhere in New York, apparently migrating overnight and popping up afresh at another art house every morning. In these days of corporate ownership of the local multiplex, this conceit would only work in Manhattan, where the art house not only lives but thrives.
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Travel, 2 September 2007

Kingdom of the horse

     LEXINGTON, KY -- Keeneland Race Course is as much about friendliness and genuine hospitality as it is about Thoroughbred racing at its best. Its 921 acres of barns, dogwoods, maples, rolling bluegrass pasture and meticulously maintained racing and training ovals are a hymn to horse culture and tradition.
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